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| Robert and Kay, Americas Great Loop Cruisers Association's Harbor Hosts in Southport |
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| The view from Robert and Kay's front porch |
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| Southport Marina |
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Since our departure from Southport, NC we have been moving steadily up the North Carolina coast. Day 1 brought us past Carolina Beach and Wrightsville Beach to Topsail/Surf City Marina. We accomplished this trek in record time by lowering our radar mast to get under two 20’ bridges that don’t have scheduled times convenient to each other.
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| Waiting to go under the Wrightsville Bridge |
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| Topsail Beach Pier |
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| Camp Lajeune |
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| Topsail Beach |
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| Topsail Island Marina |
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| Swansboro, NC |
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On Day 2 we transited the Marine Corps Base Camp Lajeune’s ten miles of waterway. We did have to wait for the military-operated Onslow Beach Swing Bridge to be opened. Its clearance when closed is 12’; SUMMERTIME’s air height with her mast down is 14’. Some things can’t be helped. We passed by Swansboro, heading for the sport-fishing town of Beaufort (BO-fort), NC. Just as we were about to enter the opening for the Beaufort & Morehead Railroad Bridge, it began its lowering process… how unfortunate for us…the rail bed is 7’ off the water when closed! One shiny black train engine made its way across the Newport River. Fifteen minutes later it returned pushing a dozen empty rail cars. In the meantime, we got to practice our “waiting maneuvers”… how fortunate for us!?!
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| Beaufort Docks |
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| Beaufort is the home of a large Menhaden fishery |
Day 3 saw us making a "first light" departure from The Homer Smith Docks on the outskirts of downtown Beaufort. We crossed the Neuse River in a light breeze... Thank-you Lord... and enjoyed an early stop at Oriental Marina and Inn. After admiring the handsome shrimping fleet and numerous sailboats, we stretched our legs by walking to a nearby store offering new and consigned marine supplies, clothing with catchy logos and locally-produced groceries. Happily we found a bronze deck pipe cap in the consignment area to replace the one that Wally gave to King Neptune as we struggled to grab a mooring ball at Marina Jacks in Sarasota, FL last year. We haven’t been able to find a replacement until now. We also enjoyed lively chit-chat about boating with the gallery owner across the street from our slip. His plans to do the Great Loop failed to come together, but his love for messing around in boats hasn’t wavered one bit. The local artistry displayed in his many-roomed shop was exemplary!
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| Oriental, NC the sailing capital |
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| The famous "Bean" coffee shop |
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| Shrimping fleet |
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To reach Dowry Creek Marina east of downtown Belhaven on Day 4, we had to cross the Pamlico Sound and enter the Pungo River… quiet water in both cases… whew! We had a tug-and-tow creeping up on us all day and met two tugs, each pushing a barge loaded with phosphates. We were told later that Washington, NC, up the Pamlico River, has a large phosphate mine. Who knew! We borrowed the complementary car from the marina and drove the 4 miles into downtown Belhaven. After procuring a few essential provisions, we watched as two clever artists applied tattoo-like patterns to the upper exterior wall of a shop… from an extended man-lift. Quite a project!
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Today we made an early exit in hopeful anticipation of clearing the Pungo River, the Pungo-Alligator River Canal, the Alligator River and the swing bridge opening into the Albemarle Sound. Three years ago we were hung up for more than a week in the Belhaven area due to dangerous weather. Even when we attempted to move on, the rivers and the canal were still exhibiting rough water conditions. This year, however, while severe storm activity drops noticeable accumulations of snow across the country, we are not seeing the unsettled weather last long here on the North Carolina ICW. |
Bird life along our recent route has stood out as different from earlier sitings. In the past few days we have begun to notice single loons actively feeding, rafts of cormorants enjoying each other’s company and osprey couples nesting or completing their nest construction. Interesting!
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